We are very satisfied with the tour. Nice weather and few tourists. Never been on Bornholm before and the island surprised me with variations in landscape. Sandy beaches, sometimes with steep walls behind (like Ven), stone beaches, rocks and cliffs (like Kullaberg). Along the way a lot of villages, most of them old and picturesque. Easy to get what you want, fresh fish, bread, etc...
In the morning travelling from Ystad to Rönne by fast ferry, approximately one hour. Hard to get close to the water near Rönne so we went to the small village Arnager where we could park the car. Wind approximately 13 m/s from west. While waiting for it to calm down, we looked around in the village and found an extraordinary gallery. The wind got stronger so we decided to stay and in the end we fell asleep with grains of sand bumping on the tent.
The wind had weakened. We got away riding and surfing the waves of yesterday, making good speed. Lunch along the way and finally we reached Dueodde, a beautiful place and the south cape of Bornholm. We went on, now in lee of the wind. Filling up food in Snogebäck (a lot of nice restaurants there) and finding night camp on a mighty beach just a bit north.
Passing Nexö, visiting Svaneke and finding night camp on the rocks south of Gudhjem. Up northeast we could see Christiansö, discussed a visit there but we had no information about the weather and not enough time. We would need at least one day extra. The night fell and we could see the lighthouse on Christiansö and red sky over Gudhjem.
Slowly Gudhjem was growing in front of us. Typical chimneys showing where the smoking of fish takes place. Told to be the most beautiful village on the island and we were not disappointed. Stayed for some hours, had late lunch and finally left and found a good beach south of Tejne. Fireplace and discussions of life.
Went on north and stopped a while at Allinge, nice village. The bakery handed us heavy goods to enjoy after dinner. Passed the north point, turned and went on south. Beautiful landscape in this area with moors and high cliffs. Passed underneath Hammershus and planned to find night camp before reaching Hasle. Found no attractive place, went by Hasle and discovered a nice beach. Sunset promising fine weather next day. Cooked a heavy and tasty dinner which we deserved. A miracle we managed to crawl into the sleeping bags before falling asleep.
The sun shining and we went slowly south, Rönne in front of us, partly in heat haze. Sometimes we felt the power of the wind coming from southeast, we understood that on the other side of Rönne it would be tougher. An apple and some water, enjoyed sheltered by the north pier of Rönne, gave us strength. Passing Rönne harbour meeting the waves and the wind (approximately 8 m/s). Got messy when the waves came back after bouncing into the south pier but we got by without incidents. Halfway to Arnager we went ashore for lunch and noticed that having lunch dressed only in shorts on the 23 of September isn’t too bad. Reached Arnager and the lap was completed.
Packed the car, went to Rönne, entered a closed camping site, made a good meal and afterwards went to city to discover the nightlife.
Came home early, woke up on a sunny day, spent the day looking around the town and late afternoon going home by ferry. Rönne is a charming town with old characteristic buildings and a fine square to spend some hours, relaxing, drinking latte and talking.
A wonderful week at the end of summer. Giving thanks to the sun, wind, sea, earth, cliffs and the friendly people of Bornholm for letting us share this fine place.
Peter